Nepal 2019 - Day 9 - Ama Dablam Base Camp

 Ama Dablam Base Camp

The next morning was very refreshing even with the lack of sleep. Probably, the excitement of the day ahead was the adrenaline I needed. The trail towards Ama Dablam Base Camp veered off from the main trail through the village at the far end of Pangboche. You had to descend to a dusty path to a metal bridge over Dudh Kosi. Beyond the river, the trail made a very steep ascent through loose sandy switchbacks which already had me worried for the downhill return. Though steep and slippery, this section was relatively short emerging upon a large rock-strewn meadow. From there, you had to hike across a boulder laden hillside, where a myriad of loosely defined trails allowed the trekkers to choose their own path to the top. 

At the top of the spine, a number of trails led the way along the ridge to the northeast, all heading in the same direction at different levels along the slope. To the other side of this ridge was a deep valley with the thin Cholunge Khola river thundering through the rocky terrain. The opposite side of the valley was a steep eroded slope of sand, gravel and rock. You could hear the rocks tumbling down the slopes which wasn't very comforting. 

Continuing along the narrow ridge trail, I rounded up over and around the small slopes towards Ama Dablam. Many sections of the trail had fine beach like sand, a reminder that this entire region was under water hundreds of thousands of years ago. The views along the route were stunning. Taboche loomed like a massive giant to the West. The peak of Pumori poked out above the landscape far to the north where it straddles the border of Nepal and Tibet. Everest and Lhotse continued to be in view as well as island Peak off to the East and of course, my favourite Ama Dablam. As the terrain leveled out in my approach towards the base camp, the river trickled along the trail, some portions around the rocks clinging to crusts of ice, melting in the sun. 

Finally, after climbing the last set of rocks, there it was, the Ama Dablam Base Camp at about 15,000ft sitting in a flat meadow right at the base of the mountain which towers above at a height of 22,852ft. It's Eastern face was one of the most unique and easily identifiable peaks. Likely, over 50-60 tents, both large and small were scattered all over the meadow. The bright colours of these tents popped out on the landscape of short, dull grass and the gray rocky base of Ama Dablam.

I wandered through the camp, relaxing in the grass near the base of the mountain for a while and admiring the amazing peaks all around. The complete 360° view of the Himalayas, the Ama Dablam Base Camp was akin to an amphitheater to the mountain gods. Eventually, I pulled myself from the majestic views and made my way back towards Pangboche to relax for the rest of the afternoon. 

My plan initially was to get to Dingboche and rest there but this side mission was totally worth it. I replanned my itinerary and now planned to head to Chukung directly for acclimatisation and catch up on lost time.